A: That’s always an option, but it would definitely be more challenging for you to keep changing them given how they have to be mounted and strung to function.  I think the easiest solution, and one that would have the most impact, would be to invest in panels.  I would leave your roman shades as they are all year-round.  I always like to layer my window treatments anyway.

To start, I would mount a pole (there are great choices in all price ranges out there) and either purchase a pair of stationary panels, have them made or, if you are handy, make them yourself.  You can make the spring/summer panels in linen and for fall/winter, you can use a heavier weight fabric depending on your taste and décor.

Some suggested websites or retailers that have a great selection of window treatments and hardware are ABC Home, Smith and Noble, Pottery Barn, Anthropologie, and Restoration Hardware.

A: Don’t be afraid to cover your wood floors!  Your rugs should be as large as possible to fit the space (this will make the space seem larger) and you’ll still see the wood around the perimeter.  Generally, you want to leave a six to nine inch border of floor on each side of the rug, but this can vary depending on the shape and layout of the room.

A: Hanging art is an art in and of itself!  The central focal point of a piece should be about eye level (this means for a person of average height, not for a basketball player).  If hanging over a sofa, sideboard or mantle, try to start as low as you can.  The bottom of the piece should hang about 4 to 6 inches above the furniture, depending on the size of the artwork itself.

A: My standard height for sconces is 66 inches off of a finished floor (this is measured from the center of the electrical box).  You have to take into account, however, the location of the actual light bulb in the sconce.  You don’t want to stare into a light bulb; therefore, the height should be adjusted accordingly.

A: Great question! It’s something everyone planning construction should know. It is always best to select tile after your major decorating decisions have been made. Rooms should relate from one to the next–including bathrooms. In order to avoid a disjointed look, you should decide on tile only after you know what style, colors and textures you’ll be using in the surrounding rooms. You’re spending the money anyway, so why not do it right the first time and make it looked planned.

A: This is not the first time I’ve been asked to save a marriage through design! Yes, you can make this work by making it look intentional. Make sure the other hardware in the room mixes the two finishes.  Use chrome towel bars and put out brass accessories like a soap dish, tissue box or small vases. Sometimes these innocent mistakes make for the most interesting design choices.

A: It’s almost never a good idea to purchase a matching suite for any room. Be confident and mix it up so you can make it your own. We’re not all the same. Your furniture shouldn’t be either.

A: This is the kind of dilemma that inspires us designers because it gives us a chance to really make a room stand out. Get chairs with clean lines and upholster them in a solid, textured fabric. Put a monochromatic Tibetan rug on the floor and apply a simple Venetian plaster or high gloss paint on the walls. For the chandelier, use an interesting fixture and keep the window treatments pared down with tone on tone fabrics.

A: I find that hanging a chandelier 34 inches off of a table usually looks and feels best and won’t intrude on dinner conversation. In the kitchen, I usually measure 36 inches of the counter.

A: Go by the actual color, not by the name on the label! Paint names can be entertaining, but they often misrepresent the color inside the can. Benjamin Moore’s Metallic Gold is actually brown and not metallic at all. Don’t forget: always test the color on your wall and live with it for at least 24 hours before committing, to see how the color changes with the changing light.